Big Wall Open 2014

After arriving from Austria, we have been participating on comp Big Wall Open. It was something like end of winter league with one qualification day, where was 10 qualification routes between 4 - 7c+. Second day were semifinals and finals, where started climbers, who climbed best first day + climbers, which were winners winter one month comps + Adam Ondra.

In semifinals we prepaired 7b+ for women and 7c+ for man. In this round was quite big scattering efficiency between climbers, so routes were starting around 6c and slowly gradate. In women category was achieved one top and two tops in men.

Eliška Vlčková in Women Semifinal

Finals were little bit similar, womes were 7c and mens 8b+ (until ¾ part of wall, until headwall it was something around 8a+). Two tops in women category and no top in men (Adam fall two steps under top and it was great to watch him fighting).

Jan Jeliga in Men Semifinal

Adam Ondra in Men Semifinal

Podium

I think, it was great comp and thank all of competitors for coming.

In Monday and Wednesday we set on left big pillar new 5 routes between 6a – 8a+.

New routes

Kletterpark Kärnten, Mühldorf, Austria

Last week, we were invited to the climbing center The rock Kletterpark Mühldorf in Austria. We were setting for two days – first day we set 11 routes from rope, with difficulty scale between 5a – 6b+. Second day we set 20 boulders until 7A. The Rock is nice, modern wall, so it was nice work in great ambience. We were working under the directions of Franz Karger, who is manager of this climbing centre. He is really good person and climber and it was very fresh to meet somebody like him.

Climbing Center

Holds for setting

Vilda´s art:)

Boulder Gym

Thank you very much for inviting and posibility to setting in climbing center The Rock. It was pleasure.

Ytong Injury 2014

The 6th annual competition in bouldering was held last saturday in  a beautiful city of České Budějovice. In cooperation with Cyril Kratochvil, who is the owner of climbing center Lanovka and the main organizator of this competition, I have been responsible for setting qualifications and final boulders. Cyril has made a decision to use some of our new holds from HRT, AIX, Bleaustone, which appeared as a good decision  and an amazing motivation for me. It is always very creative to set boulders from structures and shapes , which are new and unknown.

Many great climbers participated in this year´s competition. Due to their climbing abilities final rounds have offered  great show and magnificent performances. Many thanks to all of you for coming.

Setting

David Kozel in Qualification round

Winner Nelly Kudrová in Women Final, boulder # 5

Winner Jan Jeliga in Men Final, boulder # 3

And because final rounds was held in overhang part of  lead wall we were, in Monday  setting routes. There is short, but nice wall with great level of overhanging - rock style. I made 5 routes between 5c and 7c+.

trying some 7a+

I would like to thank to Cyril Kratochvil and Jirka Bína for their attitude and support. From my point of view this comp is always special and I was honoured to participate in this competition as setter.

Again on Bigwall

After Czech Cup we were, for two days, setting again on Bigwall. It is always pleasure to set here. We set around 15 boulders until 7C and 4 routes between 5c+ - 7b.

Head routesetter of Bigwall Viktor Parizek trying some new boulders

1st Round Rock Point Czech Cup in Bouldering

Last week, we were setting 1st round of Czech Cup in bouldering. It was also one of two nominational competitions to Czech reprezentation. We were trying to set really hard boulders both in qualification and in the final. This round of Czech Cup was something like test winter preparation. Qualifications were flash system - so 8 boulders, 1.5 hour and betwenn 20 - 30 climbers in one group - dusty party:).
In women qualification, two tops were not achieved, but two or three girls touched last top holds and it was nice to look them fighting hard. In men qualification, there were 4 boulders, which were "for normal" people, 2 for those, which want to knock on a door of final round and 2 boulders, which were really hard. These two boulders were climbed only by Martin Stráník and one of them by climber from Slovakia Tomaso Gregsák. It was nice again to see great climbers fight about a bonus holds and trying to achive tops.

Men Qualification

Martin Spilka in Men Qualification # 1

Final rounds were directed great perfomances of Petra Ružičková and Martin Stráník. They achieved 4 tops and climbed indeed very nice. For me was nice surprise 2nd place of Šimková Veronika, which climbed in Czech Cup for first time.

Veronika Šimková in Women Final # 3

Honza Šolc in Men Final # 2

Štěpán Stráník in Men Final #1

Next rounds of Czech cup will be on public places like clubs (Palace Akropolis - 8.3.), exhibition grounds Sport Expo 10.5., Sport Life 8.11.), climbing festivals (MHFF Teplice 30.08.) or squares (MCR Slaný 13.09) and some of these competitions will be recored by TV cams. It is nice progress and it is motivating, in my eyes, both for climbers and also for setters to participate on integrated systems of competitions. Thanks to the organizators of these competitons, which started to cooperated together.
First three photos are from Vladimír Šauli and last two by Lukaš Bíba.

Sunday work:

Filling walls by holds