Saturday, 3 May 2014

BoulderAirea

We were invited to Feilnbach in Germany. Uwe and his crew have here a very nice outdoor boulder wall. We set 50 new boulders:-)!

Vilda´s setting hard yellow problem:-)
Boulder wall

Wednesday, 30 April 2014

Big Boulder Open 2014

Before Big Boulder Open 2014 we were setting for 2 days in Boulder Bar, where started next round of every month´s competition and 40 boulder were done. With cooperation with Viktor Pařizek we have been preparing 28 qualification boulders and 10 finals. It was great work in good atmosphere.

Holds for competition
Olin´s setting
Vilda´s thinking:)
Panorama gym

Monday, 14 April 2014

Malgym

Title of this article is a acronym for high school in the Lesser town in Prague, near Charles bridge. Last week I have been working there for three days, firstly I removed old routes ( there were for three years), cleaned holds and then set 10 new routes - in difficulty scale between 3 - 6b. Then I reset small boulder and made small  construction for fingerboard.
I would like to thank  teachers and headmaster of "Malgym" for their support of climbing as "normal" sport activity.

Setting Routes

Thursday, 20 March 2014

Makak climbing arena

We have been working for two days in Jablonec nad Nisou and during these two days we set 10 routes between 5c – 7b. Makak climbing arena is nice climbing wall with great crew, which always thinking about some improvements, so it was nice work in friendly environment. We are looking forward to next visit. Thank you.

Olin´s working
One of the part wall

Thursday, 6 March 2014

Last week

Last Thursday I was approached by Honza Zbranek, because he had no time to set one training route for Czech junior representation on their training camp in climbing centre Smichoff. Due absence greater number of holds I set direct, hard hitting 8a+  route, which gradate in the end. I hope, that the representatives enjoyed this route.
In Monday I was again setting on Bigwall - 12 boulder were set, between 5 - 7C.
In Tuesday and  Wednesday we were setting with Olin in Boulder Bar and 40 boulders were done.
Vilda

Tuesday, 25 February 2014

Big Wall Open 2014

After arriving from Austria, we have been participating on comp Big Wall Open. It was something like end of winter league with one qualification day, where was 10 qualification routes between 4 - 7c+. Second day were semifinals and finals, where started climbers, who climbed best first day + climbers, which were winners winter one month comps + Adam Ondra.
In semifinals we prepaired 7b+ for women and 7c+ for man. In this round was quite big scattering efficiency between climbers, so routes were starting around 6c and slowly gradate. In women category was achieved one top and two tops in men.

Eliška Vlčková in Women Semifinal

Finals were little bit similar, womes were 7c and mens 8b+ (until ¾ part of wall, until headwall it was something around 8a+). Two tops in women category and no top in men (Adam fall two steps under top and it was great to watch him fighting).

Jan Jeliga in Men Semifinal
Adam Ondra in Men Semifinal
Podium

I think, it was great comp and thank all of competitors for coming.


In Monday and Wednesday we set on left big pillar new 5 routes between 6a – 8a+.

New routes

Monday, 24 February 2014

Kletterpark Kärnten, Mühldorf

Last week, we were invited to the climbing center The rock Kletterpark Mühldorf in Austria. We were setting for two days – first day we set 11 routes from rope, with difficulty scale between 5a – 6b+. Second day we set 20 boulders until 7A. The Rock is nice, modern wall, so it was nice work in great ambience. We were working under the directions of Franz Karger, who is manager of this climbing centre. He is really good person and climber and it was very fresh to meet somebody like him.


Climbing Center
Holds for setting
Vilda´s art:)
Boulder Gym

Thank you very much for inviting and posibility to setting in climbing center The Rock.It was pleasure.

Friday, 14 February 2014

Ytong Injury 2014

The 6th annual competition in bouldering was held last saturday in  a beautiful city of České Budějovice. In cooperation with Cyril Kratochvil, who is the owner of climbing center Lanovka and the main organizator of this competition, I have been responsible for setting qualifications and final boulders. Cyril has made a decision to use some of our new holds from HRT, AIX, Bleaustone, which appeared as a good decision  and an amazing motivation for me. It is always very creative to set boulders from structures and shapes , which are new and unknown.

Many great climbers participated in this year´s competition. Due to their climbing abilities final rounds have offered  great show and magnificent performances. Many thanks to all of you for coming.


Setting
David Kozel in Qualification round
Winner Nelly Kudrová in Women Final, boulder # 5
Winner Jan Jeliga in Men Final, boulder # 3

And because final rounds was held in overhang part of  lead wall we were, in Monday  setting routes. There is short, but nice wall with great level of overhanging - rock style. I made 5 routes between 5c and 7c+.

trying some 7a+


I would like to thank to Cyril Kratochvil and Jirka Bína for their attitude and support. From my point of view this comp is always special and I was honoured to participate in this competition as setter.

Sunday, 9 February 2014

Again on Bigwall

After Czech Cup we were, for two days, setting again on Bigwall. It is always pleasure to set here. We set around 15 boulders until 7C and 4 routes between 5c+ - 7b.

Head routesetter of Bigwall Viktor Parizek trying some new boulders

1st Round Rock Point Czech Cup in Bouldering

Last week, we were setting 1st round of Czech Cup in bouldering. It was also one of two nominational competitions to Czech reprezentation. We were trying to set really hard boulders both in qualification and in the final. This round of Czech Cup was something like test winter preparation. Qualifications were flash system - so 8 boulders, 1.5 hour and betwenn 20 - 30 climbers in one group - dusty party:).
In women qualification, two tops were not achieved, but two or three girls touched last top holds and it was nice to look them fighting hard. In men qualification, there were 4 boulders, which were "for normal" people, 2 for those, which want to knock on a door of final round and 2 boulders, which were really hard. These two boulders were climbed only by Martin Stráník and one of them by climber from Slovakia Tomaso Gregsák. It was nice again to see great climbers fight about a bonus holds and trying to achive tops.

Men Qualification
Martin Spilka in Men Qualification # 1

Final rounds were directed great perfomances of Petra Ružičková and Martin Stráník. They achieved 4 tops and climbed indeed very nice. For me was nice surprise 2nd place of Šimková Veronika, which climbed in Czech Cup for first time.

Veronika Šimková in Women Final # 3
Honza Šolc in Men Final # 2
Štěpán Stráník in Men Final #1

Next rounds of Czech cup will be on public places like clubs (Palace Akropolis - 8.3.), exhibition grounds Sport Expo 10.5., Sport Life 8.11.), climbing festivals (MHFF Teplice 30.08.) or squares (MCR Slaný 13.09) and some of these competitions will be recored by TV cams. It is nice progress and it is motivating, in my eyes, both for climbers and also for setters to participate on integrated systems of competitions. Thanks to the organizators of these competitons, which started to cooperated together.
First three photos are from Vladimír Šauli and last two by Lukaš Bíba.

Sunday work:

Filling walls by holds