Ytong Injury 2014

The 6th annual competition in bouldering was held last saturday in  a beautiful city of České Budějovice. In cooperation with Cyril Kratochvil, who is the owner of climbing center Lanovka and the main organizator of this competition, I have been responsible for setting qualifications and final boulders. Cyril has made a decision to use some of our new holds from HRT, AIX, Bleaustone, which appeared as a good decision  and an amazing motivation for me. It is always very creative to set boulders from structures and shapes , which are new and unknown.

Many great climbers participated in this year´s competition. Due to their climbing abilities final rounds have offered  great show and magnificent performances. Many thanks to all of you for coming.

Setting

David Kozel in Qualification round

Winner Nelly Kudrová in Women Final, boulder # 5

Winner Jan Jeliga in Men Final, boulder # 3

And because final rounds was held in overhang part of  lead wall we were, in Monday  setting routes. There is short, but nice wall with great level of overhanging - rock style. I made 5 routes between 5c and 7c+.

trying some 7a+

I would like to thank to Cyril Kratochvil and Jirka Bína for their attitude and support. From my point of view this comp is always special and I was honoured to participate in this competition as setter.

Again on Bigwall

After Czech Cup we were, for two days, setting again on Bigwall. It is always pleasure to set here. We set around 15 boulders until 7C and 4 routes between 5c+ - 7b.

Head routesetter of Bigwall Viktor Parizek trying some new boulders

1st Round Rock Point Czech Cup in Bouldering

Last week, we were setting 1st round of Czech Cup in bouldering. It was also one of two nominational competitions to Czech reprezentation. We were trying to set really hard boulders both in qualification and in the final. This round of Czech Cup was something like test winter preparation. Qualifications were flash system - so 8 boulders, 1.5 hour and betwenn 20 - 30 climbers in one group - dusty party:).
In women qualification, two tops were not achieved, but two or three girls touched last top holds and it was nice to look them fighting hard. In men qualification, there were 4 boulders, which were "for normal" people, 2 for those, which want to knock on a door of final round and 2 boulders, which were really hard. These two boulders were climbed only by Martin Stráník and one of them by climber from Slovakia Tomaso Gregsák. It was nice again to see great climbers fight about a bonus holds and trying to achive tops.

Men Qualification

Martin Spilka in Men Qualification # 1

Final rounds were directed great perfomances of Petra Ružičková and Martin Stráník. They achieved 4 tops and climbed indeed very nice. For me was nice surprise 2nd place of Šimková Veronika, which climbed in Czech Cup for first time.

Veronika Šimková in Women Final # 3

Honza Šolc in Men Final # 2

Štěpán Stráník in Men Final #1

Next rounds of Czech cup will be on public places like clubs (Palace Akropolis - 8.3.), exhibition grounds Sport Expo 10.5., Sport Life 8.11.), climbing festivals (MHFF Teplice 30.08.) or squares (MCR Slaný 13.09) and some of these competitions will be recored by TV cams. It is nice progress and it is motivating, in my eyes, both for climbers and also for setters to participate on integrated systems of competitions. Thanks to the organizators of these competitons, which started to cooperated together.
First three photos are from Vladimír Šauli and last two by Lukaš Bíba.

Sunday work:

Filling walls by holds

Some Pictures from last week

Last  Saturday - 9 boulders for local competition in town Slané.

Vilda´s working

During the week:

Climbing wall Kladno we were setting 14 routes with scale of difficulty between 5 - 8a. Especially 3 new routes (7a+, 7b+, 8a - xCult slopers style) in main overhang profile "Wave" are worth to visit.

New xCult slopers

Vilda´s setting in "Wave" profile

Olin´s setting easy route:)

Last 14 days of setting

In last 14 days, we were setting in several climbing gyms.

Big Wall - 25 boulder problems between 4 - 7C+ and 11 routes between 3 and 7c.

Map of new boulders

Boulder Bar - 40 boulder problems between 5 - 7C.

Climbing Wall Ruzyně - 25 boulder problems between 5 - 7B+.

Boulder Games 2013

The bouldering competition took place in my home town on the 21st December. The competition took place on my friend´s bouldering wall. As the last year he asked me to help him with setting the competition boulders. The first photo shows you that there were numbers of elements for the competition, which AIX has borrowed us (we thank for it) and that´s why I was really looking forward to the setting. Also my buddy Vilda arrived. And how it all ended, you will see bellow.

Flock of elements:)

Osík in Men Qualification # 4

Peťa Tefelnerová in Women Final # 3

Vilda in Men Final # 1

Matouš Bradáč in Men Final # 2

Again Vilda in Men Final # 3

Results Men Final:

				Qualification	Final
1.	Chejn Vilda	1987	vildaandolda.blogspot.com	9t16	4t7 4z4
2.	Handlíř Petr	1983	Třebíč - ADAP	9t13	3t5 4z4
3.	Kozel David	1982	Rock Pillars, A muerte	10t13	3t5 4z5
4.	Kubíček Jan	-	-	8t12	2t3 ?z?
5.	Šeliga Marián	1989	K2 Žilina (SVK)	10t14	2t5 ?z?
6.	Lukáš Smejkal	-	-	9t14	1t1 ?z?
7.	Ondřej Řitička	1986	Hidetaka	9t11	1t3 ?z?
8.	Matouš Bradáč	1982	SCVM	9t16	1t4 ?z?

Results Women Final:

				Qualification	Final
1.	Peťa Tefelnerová	1989	banan clan	6t12	2t3 3z6
2.	Eliška Pudová	1985	HSK Vyškov	6t13	2t4 3z4
3.	Dorka Vlková	1988	lokalblok	5t6	2t7 3z7
4.	Terka Píšová	1986	lokalblok	4t5	1t1 4z8
5.	Petra Formanová	-	-	6t16	1t1 3z7
6.	Inka Matoušková	1992	INK	8t17	1t4 2z2

Boulder Bar Prag

In Boulder Bar in Prague a small local race takes place every months. 70 boulders is renewed. Over the year we are part of this renewal.

Vilda has a rest:)

Olin´s adding new Aix element

Climbing centres Tendon Smíchoff and Bigwall

Climbing center Tendon Smíchoff: We made 8 routes between 6b - 7c.

Vilda´s working on 7a

Olin´s setting 6c

IFSC Chief Route Setter Jan Zbranek is cleaning holds for us:)

Climbing Center Big Wall: We made 42 boulders between 3 - 7C+.

Highball setting:)

Nice week:).

Big Wall Vysočany # 2

Again at the Big Wall Vysočany. We were asked to set couple of new climbing routes and boulders.

First we started with routes, on the main profile we built two of them. Vilda used AIX holds to set his nice 7b+ and I used holds from Raďous to set 7c+/8a. The difficulty level of next 6 routes was from 6a to 7a+/b. Next two days we were building boulders, 34 pieces all together.Thedifficulty level from V1 to V10.

A big thanks to Big Wall for they cooperation.

Vilda´s setting 7b+

Lift parking

Boulders setting

Vilda´s idea:)

Panorama boulder gym

Again in Kladno

We were invited to Kladno´s new wall for setting 25 boulders, that we set in colour difficulty scale from white (the simplest one) to blue (the most difficult one). The boulder isn´t the biggest one, but nice profiles and new delivered holds are good enough for perfect training conditions. We hope, you´ll like this boulders.
As next we filled up 10 simple routes in grade from 3+ to 5b.

Olin´s putting footholds for 4c

Vilda´s setting 5b

Vilda´s working boulder problem

Our new case with coloured tick marks for boulders

Panorama boulder gym-overhanging part